I have a well loved and much used but completely serviceable 10' x 10' Trimline canopy (by Flourish) for sale.
$400 in as-is condition. Cash or credit card in advance of delivery.
Available for local pickup (Gainesville, FL) OR after the Musical Echoes Native American Flute Festival ends in Ft. Walton Beach, FL on Sunday, April 28, 2024. Bags shown in the photos to carry canopy parts ARE included in this price.
Details and set up photos are at the bottom of this page.
This website deliberately isn't set up for interactive payments. Using a valid email address, I will send invoices using Square or PayPal so payments can be made securely, quickly and easily without relying on the security of my website to protect your credit or debit card information.
Advertised prices for these flutes include the handcrafted fleece bag shown in each photo. Florida's sales tax will be collected. $25 will be added to defray packaging and shipping charges for flutes mailed within the continental United States. Wall-hanging flute racks will be mailed domestically (within the US) for an additional $50.
Mouthpieces and end caps for these flutes are constructed by turning a tenon in the body of the flute (left side of the photo). A flat-bottomed hole is drilled in the mouthpiece as shown on the right side of the image. The two pieces are attached using Titebond III wood glue before being securely clamped until dry. This process provides a strong mechanical joint and greatly increases the surface area being glued. Thereby providing a significant mechanical advantage over simply gluing two pieces of wood together.
Most of my flutes have 6 finger-holes and are tuned as pentatonic modes 1
& 4 with an electronic tuner using an A4 = 440 Hz reference point with Equal Temperament tuning.
I also tune flutes using a 432 Hz reference point (Standard Just Intonation used starting Oct. 2023). These flutes are specifically designated.
Upon request, MP3 files (dry and with reverb effects) may be sent by e-mail to
demonstrate a particular flute's tonal quality. Enjoy.
A custom, hand-crafted fleece bag is included with each flute. MP3 files are available.
Smaller (higher key, higher pitch) to Larger flute order (lower key, deeper sound)
Flute ...
Number
Price
Key ,
Wisconsin Black Walnut burl (figured Myrtle / Madrone burl mouthpiece)
291
$219
F5 - high
Chocolate Black Walnut (Pecan / Madrone burl mouthpiece)
286
$189
C#5 (Db) - high
Western Red Cedar - closed end Woodpecker of Magnolia / Pink Ivory
317
$209
C5 - high
Locust burl - closed end, live edge (Thuya burl mouthpiece)
362
$329
C5 - high
Honey Locust, no mouthpiece
367
$149
C5 - high
stubby Oak - 5-hole, no mouthpiece, only 12.5" long
365
$129
B4
stubby Cherry - aged (Dogwood mouthpiece)
384
$249
B4
spalted Sycamore (figured Shedua mouthpiece)
315
$169
Bb4 (A#)
Western Red Cedar - Chocolate (Wisc. Ash mouthpiece)
327
$159
A4
Western Red Cedar - Chocolate (spalted Sycamore mouthpiece)
Honduran Mahogany (Eastern Red Cedar / spalted Alder mouthpiece)
242
$439
B3 - low
Western Red Cedar (figured Myrtle mouthpiece)
259
$329
Bb3 (A#) - low
Wisconsin wormy Butternut (side blown - right hand player)
143
$319 (was $399)
A3 - low
--------------
NOTE: The numbers following Key letters refer to the location of that specific key in relation to a piano keyboard. Middle C - the center point, is denoted as C4 when using scientific pitch notation.
Number 5 notes [e.g. E5 ] may also be called High or Alto. These flutes usually have1/2" to 5/8" bore diameters. Number 3 notes [e.g., B3] are Low or Baritone. These flutes typically have bores of 1 1/4" or larger. I adopted this designation of notes [e.g., "Ab4 (G#)"] as my preferred labeling method in late 2022. Mid-range flutes have 3/4" to 1 1/8" bores. I adopted this practice after learning folks who actually
read musical notation use sharp/flat designations according to their
own purposes. It may take awhile before I do this
consistently but I intend to try.
Although most keys are associated with just a couple of bores, bore sizes aren't necessarily restricted to particular notes. I have made (or own) A4 flutes with 3/4", 7/8" and 1" bore diameters. As the bore gets bigger, the flute's bore length gets shorter.
A C5 (high) flute with a 5/8" bore, this 16" long flute (# 367) is Honey Locust. The block has a CYMplify Pecan figure on Eastern Red Cedar. $149
I enjoy being able to identify the specific source of wood used in flutes and blocks. This is an example. The Pecan tree in this image had to be taken down in 2013 because the mostly dead tree in a commercial retail area had become a threat to people and parked cars. This is where the small bit of wood on this flute's block came from.
Flute 345 is Fiddleback Imbuia (southern Brazil). Tuned as an F#, Has a 7/8" bore and is about 20 1/8" long. Honduran Mahogany / Wisconsin Beech / spalted Sycamore mouthpiece. This flute was decorated as a tribute to recovery efforts near the Suwanee River in Florida following Hurricane
Idalia (2023). $509
The block
features a Honduran Mahogany tree stump (carved, wood burned; Sleeping
Beauty Turquoise circle of life; faceted Citrine gemstone) on spalted
Sycamore / Eastern Red Cedar.
The bottom end of the flute has Kingman
Turquoise representations of trees (intact and upright, bent or broken) over a band of Kingman chips and stone. The high relief Eastern Red
Cedar "broken tree" came from a tree felled by Hurricane Irma (2017) near Windsor, FL. Kingman Turquoise accents in relief at bore end.
Wood burned accents. The word "Idalia" is woodburned on the back side.
This is a closed end, live edge flute (# 362) tuned as a high C5. The Locust burl flute is about 18 9/16" long. There is a decorative band of Thuya burl (Morocco) near the end of the flute which matches the burl mouthpiece and live edge block (Thuya burl on Eastern Red Cedar). $329
spalted Sycamore (Honduran Mahogany / Cherry Laurel mouthpiece). Flute # 352 is a G4 with a 7/8" bore and is about 21 5/16" long. The block has a swooping Sycamore figure on Sycamore / Cherry (Iowa) / Eastern Red Cedar.
Western Red Cedar (7/8" bore; #355) with a spalted Sycamore mouthpiece. The block features a healing hand with circle of life design (Sleeping Beauty Turquoise and Pipestone stone inlay). This flute is tuned as an A4 and is just shy of being 19" long. $169.
Flute 352 is a 7/8" bore G4 flute. It is spalted Sycamore with a Honduran Mahogany / Cherry Laurel mouthpiece. The block features a swooping spalted Sycamore figure. $249,
Chocolate colored Western Red Cedar, closed end abstract Woodpecker (spalted Magnolia with Pink Ivory). The block has a spalted Magnolia feather on Pink Ivory with a base of Sycamore / Western Cedar / Eastern Red Cedar. The 5/8" bore flute is about 22 1/2" long. Tuned to the key of C5 - high, this flute is priced at $209.
Curly Black Limba with a tenon-mouthpiece of American Holly and Peruvian Black Walnut. The block features a Black Limba figure with an integral brass rod mounted on Black Walnut / Black Limba / Eastern Red Cedar. This 7/8"-bore flute is almost 20" long. Flute #307 is tuned as an F#4. $329
Flute #286 is Chocolate Black Walnut with a Pecan / Madrone burl mouthpiece. The block features pot carvings with wood-burned accents (1 spalted Sycamore, 2 Eastern Red Cedar) on Pecan / Madrone burl / Eastern Red Cedar. The 5/8" bore flute is tuned to the key of Db5 (C#) - high and is about 16 7/8" long. $189. The term "Chocolate" was reportedly used by the loggers who harvested this tree. I don't think this is a particularly technical term. <smile>
Flute #291 is Black Walnut burl. The mouthpiece is Figured Myrtle / Madrone burl. A Myrtle figure on Madrone burl / Eastern Red Cedar for the block. About 12 7/8" long, this 1/2" bore flute is tuned as an F5 (high). $219
Ceylon Satinwood flute with a Pink Ivory and curly Mango mouthpiece. A vertical curly Mango circle on Mango, Pink Ivory and Eastern Red Cedar block.Flute #184; Key: F4. 7/8" bore, 24 1/4" long. $399
A stone inlay Hummingbird and leaf graces the base of
this Ceylon Satinwood flute (Kingman Turquoise, Malachite, Azurite, Pipestone and red
Coral with a faceted Spessartite Garnet for an eye).
This is a Camphor flute (# 161) decorated with inlay dots of Spalted Tamarind and Eastern Red Cedar. The mouthpiece is spalted Tamarind and Red Maple. The block has an Eastern Red Cedar Anole lizard on a spalted Tamarind and Eastern Red Cedar base. Key: F4; bore 7/8" and a length of 24". A Malachite inlay turtle shell with wood burned turtle parts is on right side. $339
I've been busy developing an approach to constructing lower toned flutes in hopes of making them more readily accessible to people who may not quite have the arm reach or hand size (span) or finger size that typically allows someone to play larger deeper sounding flutes comfortably. These examples demonstrate a few results of that ongoing effort.
California Cottonwood with burls and a Raintree (aka Monkeypod) mouthpiece. The
block is a Honduran Mahogany clouds/rain figure on Raintree / Eastern Red Cedar. Flute # 340 is 23 1/8" long and has a 1
1/4" bore. Key: D4 (432 Hz Equal Temperament tuning). Burl holes were filled using stone inlay with Azurite. The block is carved with wood burned accents and colored using a Teal Chroma craft wood dye pen.
It is only about 15.9" from the mouthpiece to
the center of the bottom finger hole on this flute. Spacing between holes is about
1.2" and finger hole diameters range from about 0.35" to 0.28". Compared to flute #240 - which is itself quite comfortable to play, this flute is nearly 2" shorter, the maximum reach needed to cover the bottom hole is diminished by almost 3 inches and finger holes are a bit smaller. $429
Closeup of the block and shortened SAC and mouthpiece
Creation of this flute was inspired by someone at the 2023 Spring Cherokee of Georgia who found another flute slightly too large for them to comfortably play.
Flute 333 is a 1 1/8" bore Butternut tuned to the key of Eb4 (D#) with a 432 Hz reference point. The mouthpiece is Eastern Red Cedar (Windsor, FL - felled by Hurricane Irma) / Wild Black Walnut (California). The block features a Moss Agate cabochon mounted in Beech on a base of Black Walnut / Yellow Birch / Eastern Red Cedar. The flute is about 25 3/8" long. The diameter of the finger holes are only 6.4 to 8.6 mm (0.25 to 0.34") and the bottom hole is located about 18.6" (473 mm) from the mouth end of the flute. This thin walled flute (~1/8" between #3 and #4 holes) really sings! $469.
The Moss Agate stone is mounted vertically in Wisconsin Beech on Black Walnut / Yellow Birch / Eastern Red Cedar
Flute 215 is Alaskan Yellow Cedar with a mouthpiece of spalted Sycamore and Gainesville, FL Dogwood. Key of D4. Bore: 1 1/8". Length 26 1/4". The block features two carved pots
(Dogwood on Sycamore stand; Masseur Ebony) on spalted Sycamore, Alaskan
Yellow Cedar and an Eastern Red Cedar base. $349
Swiss Pear (quartersawn) with a spalted Alder and Padauk mouthpiece. The block features a spalted Alder bars flanking a Padauk center rail on (and parallel to) a base of Padauk and Eastern Red Cedar. Flute # 243 has a 1"-bore and is tuned to Eb4 (D#). It is just under 25" long. $339
Spalted Alder with a Padauk / Pecan mouthpiece. The block is a Honduran Mahogany swooping "C" figure with a decorative brass rod on Pecan and Eastern Red Cedar. Flute # 240 is 26" long and has a 1 1/8" bore. Key: D4.
It is about 18.7" from the mouthpiece to the center of the bottom finger hole. Spacing between holes is about 1.3" and the largest diameter is about 0.38". $349
Flute 242 is a 1 1/4" bore, B3 (low), made of Honduran Mahogany. The mouthpiece is Eastern Red Cedar and spalted Alder. The block features a Myrtle figure with two inlay Pecan dots and a Pink Ivory bar on Eastern Red Cedar. The face of the block has a 30 degree forward slant.
The distance from the mouthpiece to the bottom finger hole is only about 18". The average distance between holes is 1.5" and the largest finger hole is about 0.38" in diameter which means this flute may be pretty comfortable for many folks. The overall length of the flute is 28 1/2". $439
Flute #143 - wormy Butternut (Wisconsin); Mouthpiece: Alaskan Yellow Cedar, Gabon Ebony, Pecan top cap; Alaskan Yellow Cedar side-blown mouthpiece. Designed to be played with the right-hand down. Block: Rosewood Turtle on Wormy Butternut, Eastern
Red Cedar. Key: A4 (low). Overall length: ~33 1/4" with a 1 1/2" bore. Sale price: $319 (originally $399)
A crop of flutes under construction on my back porch in May 2020.
Photos (.jpg files) of individual flutes can be provided upon request.
This list was composed in May 2023 ... Check with the store for current availability
-- Indian Rosewood flute (5/8" bore; #288) with an
Ambonya burl and figured Myrtle mouthpiece. The block has an Ambonya
burl half-circle on Indian Rosewood / figured Myrtle / Eastern Red
Cedar. Kingman Turquoise inlay accents decorate the body of the flute
and the block. About 17 1/2" long, this flute is tuned as a C5
(high).
--
-- Western Cedar 3/4"-bore (#323) tuned to A4 (432 Hz)
--
-- Osceola Eastern Red Cedar - (White Cedar / River-recovery Cypress mouthpiece). Flute 285 is tuned as a C5 (high) with a 5/8" bore.
--
-- Blue Mahoe - Jamaica (Pecan / figured Myrtle mouthpiece). Flute 287 is another C5 (high), 5/8"-bore flute. The block has a figured Myrtle / Pink Ivory bar on Pecan / Eastern Red Cedar.
--
-- Flute 304 is curly Black Limba (Black Birch / Pecan mouthpiece). Tuned as a G4, this 7/8" flute has a block with shaped Madrone burl on Eastern Red Cedar
--
-- Honey Locust (#336) with an Alaskan Yellow Cedar / Tasmanian Blackwood mouthpiece is an A4 with a 3/4" bore. The block is a Rosewood / Alaskan Yellow Cedar dance club on Alaskan Yellow Cedar (figured) / Indian Rosewood / Eastern Red Cedar.
-- As well as other affordable Native American style flutes in various keys and woods
Antler rack. This deer hide leather wrapped set of antlers can securely support two flutes simultaneously. The base is quartersawn oak. $100
The modeled flute (#215) is not included in this price. As an FYI, it is a 1 1/8" bore flute that is more than 26" long. Intended to give a good idea about the size of flute that can be accomodated.
These uniquely beautiful flute racks were made using slabs of live edge wood. Nearly 3" long oak pegs are spaced far enough apart to focus attention on flutes being displayed.
They are finished using polymerized Tung Oil, shellac and lacquer (in that order).
French cleats provide a solid, easily used mounting system. The upper half of each cleat set is glued and screwed to the back of the rack. A small piece of oak is positioned lower on the rack to serve as a spacer meant to keep the slab parallel to the wall. It can be removed if a slight forward tilt is desired.
The lower half of each French cleat is to be attached to a wall using included hollow-wall anchors or other screws. If care is taken to make this cleat level, the flute rack will naturally hang properly. After it has been installed, the rack cleat simply slides down and fits onto the wall cleat. The rack can be removed from the wall at any time just by lifting it up The flute rack can be moved slightly from side to side if needed but aligning both halves of the cleat evenly ensures maximum holding strength.
An included installation kit has the wall-mounted
half of the French cleat, two 35-pound capacity hollow wall anchors with
screws and a small bubble level.
I've devised a method of using 1/2" PVC pipe and joints to protect the flute pegs from being damaged during shipping. So far, so good.
Installation instructions shown below ...
**************** Racks ****************
#1. Walnut with heartwood figure; 5 flutes; ~ 24" x 7.25"; ~ 2.8 lbs; $139 (plus $50 for domestic shipping and handling)
#2. Camphor; 6-flutes; evergreen tree stone inlay
(malachite and pipestone) with wood burned small background trees; ~
27" x 7"; ~ 2.4 lbs; $139 (plus $50 for domestic shipping and handling)
#3. Camphor, crotch figure; Pipestone inlay used to fill naturally occurring holes; 5-flutes; ~ 29" x 13.5"; ~ 5.0 lbs; $139 (plus $50 for domestic shipping and handling)
#4. Camphor crotch wood, figured; holds up to 5-flutes; ~ 28" x 14"; ~ 4.2 lbs; $159 (plus $50 for domestic shipping and handling)
Installation Instructions using included hollow wall anchors:
- Select the desired wall location and install one anchor after drilling a 1/4" hole.
-
Temporarily attach the cleat to the wall and hold the loose end with
the bubble level resting on top. Move the loose end up or down until the
bubble in the level is positioned between the two black lines. Then
mark the precise spot for the second wall anchor.
- Remove the cleat; drill the next hole and install the second hollow wall anchor. Then attach the cleat using both anchors.
- Hang the rack-mounted half of the cleat on top of the wall-mounted cleat.
French cleat - rack half; glued and screwed.
The side of the lower cleat which will be attached to the wall using two hollow wall anchors.
The arrow indicates up direction.
French Cleat - showing upper and lower pieces from the perspective of the wall.
With one of the two screws (hollow wall anchors) in place, use the included bubble level to determine precisely where the second hollow wall anchor must be installed.
The stand-off is merely screwed onto the back of the rack. It is intended to keep the
rack parallel to the wall. It can be removed if a slight downward (forward) tilt is
desired for the rack.
Example showing a wall rack being used in a customer's home .... The image above the flute rack is by Lola Rios Swimmer.
Camphor wall rack - another customer photo. This rack holds 6-flutes. Decorative flower figures include stone inlay
(malachite, azurite, both with brass and pipestone) with dyed oak buds; ~
27" long by 7" - 10.5" wide; ~ 3.0 lbs I think the rack allows the beauty of the flutes to shine through while adding a complementary and unique element to the display.
Smoke-colored deer hide with a 40" braided carrying strap; ~ 27" long by 6" wide
Demonstrating the cross-body carrying style
This bag was about 27" long and 6" wide. Large enough to
carry several flutes contained within individual fleece
bags. It featured a two-layer flap with Spanish braid edging and an Elk
antler latch. The interior layer of the flap has Mahogany-colored leather matching
the lace color.
Wood burned images of a pipe with a dragonfly emerging from the smoke
grace the front. A 5" image of a feather was burned on the back.
The leather used to make the bag, the braided strap, the 7" shoulder pad, fringe and bottom came from a single deer hide.
I have a well loved and much used but completely serviceable 10' x 10' Trimline canopy (by Flourish) for sale.
$400 in as-is condition. Cash or credit card in advance of delivery.
Available for local pickup (Gainesville, FL) OR after the Musical Echoes Native American Flute Festival ends in Ft. Walton Beach, FL on Sunday, April 28, 2024.
There
are a few missing buttons that normally snap into holes as pole
connections but despite a few situations of this sort, this is quite a
sturdy and functional booth. Bags shown in the following photos to carry
canopy parts ARE included in this price.
This is the complete canopy.
Canopy spare
walls, the top and four walls (with 2 bags) are shown at the bottom. I
prefer to use black and yellow storage bins to transport the walls and
will include two of those in the sale if desired.
The entire set
of rails and poles are contained in the red and black ski bag. It IS
heavy but fits comfortably in the 6' bed of my pickup
Plastic bow poles for the top of the canopy are next.
And finally, the black bag at the top of the photo contains four upper corner pieces and four riser feet.
A close up view of the walls, the canopy top (center of
the image) and two heavy duty wall bags. The four walls I typically use
are on the right side of the image.
From left to right:
(A) Rails in a zipper ski bag.
(B) Top support poles in a light weight zipper bag
(C) Upright risers in a black heavier duty bag
From bottom to top:
(A) Bottom rails (6 pieces) form three 10' rails for the two sides and the back of the booth.
(B) Front and back top rails (four pieces)
(C) The top side rails (four pieces)
(D) Upright poles (four - one per corner)
(E) Top, center rail (2 pieces)
As
a personal preference, I use Zip ties to keep companion poles together.
Doing this helps me assemble the canopy at an event a little
easier by eliminating any need to spend time or effort figuring out which ones go together.
Top framework of the canopy is laid out for assembly.
So long as the narrow attachment rods are aligned
properly as shown in this image, the entire canopy can be put together
without having to "figure stuff out."
Before making this
discovery, I tried several different methods for keeping the parts in
order but in the end, that effort wasn't necessary.
Top frame fully assembled.
Top cover bow poles are positioned. Notice that the
metal sleeve on each of the side plastic poles point up. The white
plastic end goes on the bow pole mounting points on each of the top side
rails.
The two horizontal poles on the front and back of the
center rail, are held in place using two loose bolts. To avoid
misplacing these bolts, I use a bit of blue painter's tape to hold them
in each of the end poles while in the storage bag.
The center
two horizontal poles are zip tied in place. As will be apparent in the
next photo, as soon as these poles are attached to the metal sleeves on
the side poles and after the canopy cover is in place, the bolts and zip
ties are of little real importance.
The plastic horizontal poles
are press fit into the metal sleeves. It takes some real pressure
(pushing downward while holding the ends together) to get them to slide
into place. Conversely, when disassembling the booth, I place one foot
on the side rail while pulling the white pole off of the mount. Again,
this takes more force than one initially expects. But these pieces seem
to be quite durable and do not show any signs of stress from this
process. I recorded a short iPhone video to share via email if desired.
Canopy top bow poles are assembled. Next step will be to install the canopy cover.
Roll out the canopy cover along the center rail. Unfold each side and do your best to get the corners equally well positioned.
Failure to do this can result in much more effort being required later in the set up process to get the sides well aligned.
With the canopy top pulled down to cover each corner, the riser poles are attached.
When
setting up on dirt or grass, I place each pole on a small plywood
square to keep the poles from compacting debris inside the bottom of
each pole. These pieces of plywood are included in the sale.
The rear feet/riser poles have two horizontal
connections. One for a side bottom rail and the other for the rear
bottom rail. I have not found it necessary to secure the horizontal
bottom rails using the bolt or eye bolt.
Each front foot/riser has only one horizontal connection. For the side bottom rail.
I prefer to attach the side walls to the canopy top
using heavy duty zippers before lifting the booth to attach vertical
poles to the feet/risers.
I think it is easier to get the top
corners aligned and to start zippering walls together (just a few inches
down) while the canopy top is only 3 - 4 feet above the ground. .
This
is also the point where I prefer to attach lighting (a central 4' LED
shop light fixture) and electrical cables using zip ties. This step is a
matter of personal preference of course. But it is safer to do such
work while standing flat-footed on the ground rather than on a ladder.
In this photo, I haven't connected the corners yet and haven't started zipping the side walls together. .
During
a real set up, I would zip down only 6 inches or so before connecting
the riser pole to the feet/riser pieces. And then I zip the sides about
halfway down before installing the horizontal bottom rails. I've found
it is better to have most of the canopy put together before zipping the
corners all the way down. This helps avoid putting undue strain on
zippers by having the vertical poles misaligned.
Finally, don't forget to raise the riser poles one or two holes at a time until the full booth height is achieved.
One side wall and the front and back walls have heavy duty transparent plastic "windows."
This
can be helpful during an actual event but if goods are left over night,
it can be helpful to cover those walls using solid white lightweight
covers at day's end so no one can see inside.
The included three
covers attach to the walls using Velcro strips. A fourth inside wall
cover isn't needed because one of the walls is solid. That is, it
doesn't have a transparent window.
This image shows the canopy fully assembled and in use at a recent event.
It's
helpful in Florida to open the front and back top screened vent covers
as shown here. They roll up and are held tight using Velcro strips
mounted to the canopy top. I use a step-stool to reach them.
I
didn't always place the transparent wall behind a black mesh wall panel
but in this case, it shows how I choose to secure the booth to the
ground. When the option is available I drive two 3' metal stakes into
the ground near the center of and parallel to each side wall (forming an
"X" shape). Then I use 1" ratchet straps to attach each upper corner to
one of the stakes leaning away from that corner. I always add free
weights along the bottom rails.
This booth has survived severe storms where rainwater and wind have twisted and destroyed inexpensive popup canopies.
Finally,
while I have assembled this booth entirely by myself on occasion, at my
age I must admit it is much easier to put together when two or more
folks are working together.